Himalayan Cataract Project Expedition
dispatch from Kev Thaw

It’s not often in the world of mountaineering that an expedition can say they are going over to Nepal not only to climb a beautiful 6000m mountain, but also help contribute to eradicating curable and preventable blindness. Well, this is exactly what a small crew of doctors, climbers, filmmakers, and photographers including our favourite expatriate climber Kev Thaw did over a period of six weeks during April and May of 2005. This admirable project which has given life changing treatment to many blind or near-blind Nepalese was supported by The North Face, Voom High Definition, Global Giving, The Himalayan Cataract Project, Serac Adventure Films, and Outside Magazine. Here is part of his account of the trip which also featured the legendary American climber Pete Athans amongst others.

For those interested in his other expeditions and acomplishments, (and they're well worth looking at) more details are available on his excellent website www.ktml.freeservers.com

"Ninety-four people walked away from the Himalayan Cataract Project's makeshift Jiri clinic with restored vision. Arriving blind or with only slight light sensitivity all embarked their homeward journeys with vision sufficient for a driver's license. Miraculous was the only way to describe the scene & sentiment; bandage removal shone fresh color and hope into many lives. One older Gentleman declared 'God has arrived'. Cliché I know but seeing the post -opp patients granted me a refreshed sense of humanity & humility: My slight role rendered such a positive feeling.

Jiri was the first of two scheduled Cataract Projects; Phaplu, the next lay three days away. Our chance to utilize the Nepali highways, trails. Beyond Jiri everything is moved on foot, porters assume the role of truck drivers. Unfathomable loads issue from their conical baskets slung by a single strap over the head: Sometimes shoulder straps but only to control, mass is focused solely on the headband. Everything from Chocolate to firewood makes up the one hundred and twenty kilograms, two hundred pound loads!

Jiri used to be a fixture on the trek into the Khumbu but has become neglected since air travel granted easier access to Mount Everest's valley. Another factor is the insurgent activity, Kinja and the eleven thousand foot pass of Lamjura La are reputed to be their stronghold and lay on our route. Helicopters graze the cloud's ceiling taking supplies over the conflict zone direct into the militarily secured Khumbu. Trekking tourism is a considerable percentage of Nepal's Gross National Product hence the large presence in Airport towns and specially the Khumbu. With that said we did not meet a single Maoist representative while cruising up and down the massive relief of the Himalayan foothills en route to the second clinic site in Phaplu.

First trekking day took our excited throng over a nine then ten thousand foot pass with the night spent in Bandahar. Day two was through Insurgent controlled terrain yet no representative stepped forward requesting a 'donation' for their cause. Kinja's buildings displayed political graffiti, leaving no doubt as to allegiance. Three thousand feet above we finished the day in Sete, halfway up the Lamjura La pass.

Day three, up and over the pass descending through a blooming Rhododendron forest into the town of Junbesi. In Sete we meet a blind lady traveling to the eye clinic in hope of vision. Buddha Maya had traveled from her village carried by two nephews, our Expedition took their accommodation and food upon us and we traveled the two final days together. Tempted to try and help carry but feeling the locals more qualified in headband portaging: Fear of dropping her due to a minor stumble is really what kept us from trying.

Phaplu is the current locale; yesterday was spent screening patients after setting up the clinic in the town hospital. Today is the first day of the eye camp.

May 5th, Basecamp and the weather is spectacular. Arrived into this alpine meadow on May 1st. A light coating of snow deposited yesterday evening is being forced to feed the stubbly grass as morning sun gains strength. Myself and Abby are packing to join Conrad, Kris & Michael on the col (18000ft) below the Southwest ridge and engage the summiting process. Past few days have been about servicing this first high camp, stocking supplies; food, equipment & fuel. Camping on the col establishes the ideal springboard for concluding ascent of Cholatse. My feeling is the most technical section is immediately above this camp or perhaps it was the initial four pitches? Either way I'm excited for the challenge ahead, very much looking forward to stepping into the fray and soaking up what can't fail to be a stunning 360 degree panorama!

The morning of May 12th was crisp & perfectly clear, scant condensation lurked only in the lowest valleys. All of Khumbu's summits stood calm & clear in that early light: Cho Oyu, Pumori, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam,... Conrad Anker, Kris Erickson, myself, Abby Watkins and John Griber stood atop 6440m Cholatse soaking in the awesome, spiky Himalaya skyline.

Cholatse's southeast ridge had relented very quickly, much faster than anticipated. Opting to climb at night for crisp, secure ice conditions we arrived onto the summit plateau just as the first light ignited surrounding peaks silhouettes. We'd left 18000ft Col camp shortly after sunset the prior evening, simul-climbing was our employed mode: Moving together with the rope and protection between us, much faster than belaying each rope length in the traditional style. We stopped en route four times to exchange equipment and leader. A brief rocky introduction then solid, not too steep ice for the journey's mainstay. Sixty five-ish degrees with a few steeper pitches to be deposited onto a football field plateau and a final summit ridge.

While basking and taking a short break at the base of the final snow ridge traverses to the summit, myself, Abby & John were joined by Conrad and Kris whom had begun the route at one pm and sped through the night. We continued all together traversing snow ridges above the west face; a steep 10m headwall was all the fortification the true summit offered: A thin snow fin, large and solid enough for all five of us.

Descent went smoothly via 'V' thread abseil anchors placed a couple of days prior by Conrad & Kris attempting the peak with Geoff, Pete & Michael. All of us were safely back at the tents on the col for afternoon tea.

The following morning required rapid exodus from col camp to base, pack and hike out the following morning. We had climbed on the last possible day and are back in Katmandu after a rapid exit; two long days en foot and a flight from Lukla to the city.A final event was attended with Dr Ruit, Tilgunga eye centre staff and local dignitaries: Several Ambassadors (US, N Korea, ...), various Consuls (UK vice Consul, India, ...) and a plethora of reporters. We offered a presentation then shared conversation and a meal."