Via Ferrata
Si's brief guide and suggestions for an introduction to this popular pastime which can be enjoyed by adventurous walkers and climbers alike.

A Via Ferrata ("iron way") is a route that enables the climbing of an Alpine rock face using fixed ladders or other metal aids to surmount difficult obstacles and in situ cables for protection. It's therefore possible for inexperienced climbers or athletic walkers to experience amazing atmosphere and exposure with minimal risk to themselves. The German name for Via Ferrata is Klettersteig ("climbing path") but the French use the Italian Via Ferrata and have recently developed many routes of their own.

The first major Via Ferrata routes were constructed in the Italian Dolomite and the Austrian Tyrol regions of the Alps during the First World War by soldiers who used them for traversing the mountains. Later, these same routes were used recreationally by mountaineers and the number of Via Ferratas grew steadily after the completion of perhaps the most famous route, the Bocchette Way in the Brenta Dolomites. There are now literally dozens in the Italian mountain regions and their popularity has led to many new and carefully engineered routes in both France and Switzerland.

The joy of Via Ferrata is that one needs very little in the way of equipment or traditional climbing experience. Common sense and a reasonable head for heights are essential and complete beginners to the sport would be advised to use a guide or experienced partner for their first routes. This guide uses French Via Ferrata routes around the Haute Savoie region as examples but the more adventurous or those with enough time should also look carefully at the Italian Dolomites where longer multiday expeditions such as Via delle Bocchetta (The Bocchette Way) are possible.

The basic idea of Via Ferrata is that you move along the route wearing a harness with a special shock absorbing lanyard that is always clipped to the fixed protection wire running alongside you. The lanyard has two leashes with karabiners at the end so that wherever the wire is anchored to the rock, you can bypass it by clipping the spare leash into the next span BEFORE unclipping the other leash. By proceeding like this you will ALWAYS be attached to the safety wire.

ON NO ACCOUNT MUST COWS TAILS OR LEASHES WITHOUT SHOCK ABSORBERS BE USED – A FALL WOULD MOST LIKELY BE FATAL

If you were unfortunate to take a fall, then with the correct leash system holding you, the impact would be limited by the wire and the leashes shock absorber. As an extra protective measure, a rope can be carried between two or more people to either belay in the traditional manner or to move roped together using the in situ running belay device called a pigs tail piton.

Basic equipment needed would be as follows:

• Helmet – not mandatory but advisable
• Harness
• Via Ferrata Lanyard such as the Petzl Zyper Y
• A quick draw (2 karabiners and a very short sling linking them) for resting

Also recommended would be a 25-30m rope (10-11mm), a belay device per person and a couple of karabiners each to safeguard any tricky pitches or for providing confidence and extra safety.

Bear in mind that many routes are long (3 hours plus) and can have strenuous walks both in and out. Therefore you should equip yourself as if going for a remote hike with suitable kit to deal with adverse conditions. A head torch, food and navigation kit should also be carried.

Footware should be something like a softish soled hiking or trekking boot. Some folk may even wear rock climbing shoes but these definitely aren't necessary and are useless for walking in and out from the route. Solidly soled approach shoes are a feasible alternative but avoid trainers wherever possible – even on the most easily accessible French routes.

The full technical details involved in Via Ferrata are beyond the scope of this brief guide – for more information see the excellent book "Via Ferrata – a complete guide to France" which as well as listing most of the routes in France also has a comprehensive technical section.

Trying out Via Ferrata in the UK
At present, we only know of one venue in the UK where there is a Via Ferrata facility. This is up at the Honister Pass in the Lake District. Unlike the majority of the European cableways, entry to this facility is carefully controlled and a fee is charged. However, for those new to the sport, this route should provide a safe and tutored way to try a Via Ferrata before travelling abroad to sample longer and more spectacular routes.

www.honister-slate-mine.co.uk/via_ferrata.asp

Trying out Via Ferrata in the Haute Savoie, French Alps
Si has worked in the area around La Clusaz, St Jean de Sixt, Grand Bornand and Thones in the Haute Savoie and spent much time on the local Via Ferratas. For an easy 2 or 3 day itinary, three of the best could be done using the cheap flights from the UK to Geneva and accommodation arranged by Ali and Allen at the excellent Last Resort in St Jean de Sixt – about a 50 minute drive from the airport.

Via Ferratas are graded according to their difficulty. The French system goes from F (Facile) to ED (Extremement Difficile) with F being the easiest. Don't confuse the system with French free climbing grades – the systems are not the same.

The three suggested routes based around St Jean de Sixt are (in order of difficulty):

Via Ferrata Yves Pollet-Villard
This route is a diagonal traverse in stunning scenery within the Aravis Pass above La Clusaz. Yves Pollet-Villard was a well known mountain climber and guide who was also mayor of the town and who sadly died in an avalanche in 1981.

Grade: D+ (Difficile) This grade includes the final steep pitch which can be avoided by an alternative and easy finish.

The photo of the route was taken in January 2005 – during the Summer there wouldn't be any snow in the vicinity of the route!

Allow about 3 1/2 to 4 hours for this route including the walk in and out. South facing and sunny amidst typical Savoyard scenery.

Via Ferrata de la Tour du Jalouvre
This is a long route with several strenuous sections and although technically the same grade as Yves Pollet-Villard is in my opinion slightly more difficult and serious in nature. Nevertheless, this is an extremely enjoyable route giving high mountain exposure and a real flavour of mountaineering! The approach is made just above the village of Chinaillon, from the Col de la Colombière.

Grade: D+ (Difficile) An escape route at half height allows an easier climb for those who find the first section exciting enough! A 16m suspension bridge before a thrilling vertical section are just two of the attractions...

Allow about 5 hours as this is a long route – times stated are at a fairly moderate pace and climbers moving briskly will significantly improve on them.

Via Ferrata de la Roche a Agathe
Within sight and sound of the handsome Savoyard town of Thones, this is the shortest but fiercest of the three suggested routes with a grading of ED (Extremement Difficile) for the hardest top pitch option. However, by taking the easiest (of three) option, the grade is reduced to D (Difficile).

This is a steep and spectacular route with a short walk in and out in pretty surroundings. Early on in the route you might be apprehensive to find a gorge crossing with only two wires for support instead of the usual slatted suspension bridge. Just GO FOR IT...!!! You'll have a feeling of immense satisfaction – particularly if you aren't used to exposure.

This is probably the last route to do – possibly after an early start on the Tour du Jalouvre and assuming you've got plenty of daylight and energy left!

Grade: ED (Extremement Difficile) Top section only (D) Remainder of route and easy top section option.

Allow 3 1/2 to 4 hours for this route – on completion of the descent the town of Thones is a couple of minutes walk away and has a variety of bars and restaurants!

Si would suggest the above three routes to be done during a 2 or 3 day trip – for flights try EasyJet or Jet 2 and for accommodation contact our good friends Ali and Allen at The Last Resort. They will also set you up with a guide and equipment if needed and being from Saddleworth even speak our language!!! If you need car hire from Geneva then try Auto Europe who give good rates. A quick tip – it's usually simpler and quicker (but slightly more expensive) to pick up and drop a car from the Swiss side of Geneva Airport.

The Last Resort are at:

Chalet Pre Fleuri
La Ruaz
St Jean de Sixt
74450
France

Tel (Freephone): 0800 652 3977

If you need more information then give Si a ring on 0161 620 3900 or email the shop.